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The Best Chemical Exfoliants for a Head-to-Toe Glow
Smoother, clearer, brighter skin guaranteed.
For healthy, clear, and radiant skin you have to exfoliate regularly. Yes, cleansing and moisturizing are essential, too, but neither can work optimally unless you remove the dead skin cells and dirt that inevitably accumulate. To exfoliate, you have two options: physical exfoliation, which sloughs off dead skin with a tool or a granular scrub, or chemical exfoliation. "Chemical exfoliants break up the “glue” that holds skin cells together. As the old, outermost skin cells shed, they reveal new skin," says Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York. All skin types can use a chemical exfoliant to smooth skin, reduce dullness, brighten, and improve the appearance of pores, says Murphy-Rose. However, there are different types and strengths. We break it down below.
What are the types of chemical exfoliants?
Chemical exfoliants are categorized into three main categories: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), Rose says. You'll often find formulas that contain acids from multiple categories. Here are the key differences between them:
Alpha hydroxy acids
AHAs include glycolic, mandelic, malic, citric, lactic, and natural fruit acids. These ingredients are best for treating hyperpigmentation and tackling signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles, says Rose. All skin types can incorporate an AHA into their routine; of course, the higher the percentage, the stronger the exfoliation (over-the-counter acids range from 5 to 30 percent, but more is not necessarily better, and the pH of the product can also affect how harsh it feels).
Lactic acid is the most hydrating option, making it especially great for dry skin. Glycolic acid is the smallest molecule, so it penetrates the deepest, and can also stimulate collagen production. Very often, chemical exfoliants contain a blend of these AHAs because they work well together, making the formula more hydrating, more stable, less irritating, or better able to fend off free radicals.
Beta hydroxy acids
Salicylic acid is the beta hydroxy acid star and is "the only acid that travels into the pores to deeply clean and reduce sebum buildup," says Rose. This is why it's the ideal exfoliant for oily and acne-prone skin types; it also acts as an anti-inflammatory, calming redness and irritation.
Polyhydroxy acids
This category offers the most gentle chemical exfoliants, making it ideal for sensitive skin. "Common PHAs are gluconolactone, lactobionic acid, and galactose," Rose says. They're cousins to alpha hydroxy acids, with a larger molecular size, so they don't penetrate or irritate the skin. "PHAs also provide antioxidant and hydrating benefits," Rose says.
How to choose a chemical exfoliant
Chemical exfoliants are available in many forms, from wash-off and leave-on masks to serums and cleansers. You can even find options that exfoliate the body and scalp, too. "Choosing between a toner, serum, or cleanser is personal preference, but be mindful that products that stay on the skin for a longer period of time will have stronger effects than a rinse-off cleanser because the acid isn't on the skin for long," says Rose. To help you pick a formula, we narrowed down the best chemical exfoliants for every skin type and concern.
Genesis Rivas is the Beauty Editor at Oprah Daily, where she covers hair, makeup, skin, nails, and more. Before joining the Oprah Daily team, she wrote for several publications, including InStyle, Real Simple, and Shape. When she’s not testing, researching, and writing fun and educational beauty content, you can find her dancing and eating her way through New York City. Follow her on Instagram or TikTok
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